Itineraries
WELCOME TO WINE COUNTRY
To an outsider, Napa is often thought of as a singular destination — a city where wine is plentiful and vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. It is, technically. But what many don’t understand is that the Napa Valley itself is not just one place, but simultaneously a sprawling and densely-packed area, more than 30 miles long and five miles wide, and part of an even larger 700 square mile Napa County. The area includes over 475 vineyards and more than 1,000 distinct wine brands. Despite all the hype, the Napa region still produces just 4% of the state’s total wine, the majority in small-batch, high-quality production of grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, many of which are reserved just for those visiting the vineyard and/or wine club members. Moral of the story: if you’re looking for something special, you’ ll almost certainly want to make the trip in person.
In order to divide the valley into more navigable areas, visitors tend to call Napa by wine-focused sub-sets: the foodie Yountville, the small towns with big wines of Cab-heavy Oakville and Rutherford, posh St. Helena, boho-chic Calistoga, and the up-and-coming Napa proper. To plan the ideal visit, it’s important to plot out not only what you want to drink, but the overall feeling of the visit — is it a tasting menu extravaganza, a wine buying spree, a girls’ weekend of wine and spa, romantic reconnection? Whether it’s your first trip or you’re a seasoned collector, Napa’s diverse mix of hotels, restaurants, and wine-focused experiences offer something for almost everyone.
Calistoga
Romantic getaways + wellness escapes
Many rooms at the Four Seasons Napa Valley overlook the working onsite vineyard, Elusa Winery.
For a leisurely visit of three days or more, begin in Calistoga at the north end of the Valley, where the mountainous scenery instantly puts one in vacation mode.
Complimentary Amenities for LpL Guests:
Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
Full breakfast daily for up to two guests per bedroom
$100 USD Resort credit to be utilized during stay
Early check-in/late check-out subject to availability
Complimentary Wi-Fi
Romance seekers should look to the newly opened Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley. The hotel is creatively nestled into the middle of a working vineyard, Elusa Winery, allowing for spectacular views throughout the property. Wander the grounds and you’ll find the 85 rooms and suites laying low between olive and oak trees, while the residential villas showcase views of the vineyard. Each room offers ample privacy, and all feature fireplaces and private terraces. It’s also one of the few resorts in the area offering multi-bedroom lodges with full kitchens, perfect for families. It would be easy to check into this resort and never leave – hiking trails, two sparkling pools, and an onsite vineyard are perfect for those seeking a little R&R. Your time in Calistoga (a renowned spa & wellness destination) wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Spa Talisa. Bathe in mineral-rich whirlpools or indulge in their signature mud & sun experience for the ultimate renewing treatment.
Just across the way, the Auberge resort, Solage, embodies a chic vibe with whitewashed buildings and a fresh, youthful spirit. We’d definitely recommend booking for a girls’ weekend or a spa-focused escape here. Their modern signature restaurant, Solbar, is a must-visit, dishing out fresh and flavorful California cuisine in a contemporary setting. The menu is evenly divided into “hearty” and “healthy” categories so you can decide how much you want to indulge.
Calistoga proper is just a ten-minute hop away. While the shopping isn’t grand, it’s still easy to spend an afternoon exploring the city’s small local bookstore, home, and apparel boutiques, or indulging in a signature soak in the area’s many mineral springs or mud baths.
Standout dining spots include Lovina, offer- ing New American fare in a historic Craftsman home. When featured on the menu, definitely order the chef’s play on chicken tikka topped with homemade lentil chips. If you’re in the mood for a tasting, end your stroll downtown at Tank Garage, which makes its home in a chic vintage service station. We also love the Calistoga Wine Stop, located in the town’s old train depot. Owner Tom Pelter specializes in local offerings and has been selling and talking about wine for more than 30 years. Ask him to make you up a case of local favorites, select the best bottles for cellaring, or even help decide the pairings for your next dinner party. We think of him as a one-man wine club without the recurring subscription.
It’s always best to make wine tasting appointments in advance, particularly if you’re looking to hit the big names like Schramsberg, known for its bubbly, or Chateau Montelena, designed to look like an authentic castle. Montelena is a name you likely recognize – it’s the winery known for putting California grapes on the world’s stage in the 1976 famed “Judgement of Paris” wine competition, as well as the setting for the 2008 comedy Bottle Shock. Don’t want to wait in line? In-the- know guests head to Davies Vineyards, the parent company behind Schramsberg, where you can also sip the sparkling stuff out of its St. Helena tasting room, as well as their red offerings under the name J. Davies.
VISITORS TEND TO CALL NAPA BY WINE-FOCUSED SUB-SETS TO DIVIDE THE VALLEY: THE FOODIE YOUNTVILLE, THE SMALL TOWNS WITH BIG WINES OAKVILLE AND RUTHERFORD, POSH ST. HELENA, BOHO-CHIC CALISTOGA, AND THE UP-AND-COMING NAPA PROPER.
However, one of the best ways to experience the area is to enjoy a small producer that offers that only-in-Napa experience. We love Frank Family Vineyards, owned by former Disney president Richard Frank. This vineyard is one of the few in Napa to offer an impressive collection of bubbly, white and red wines, many of which are named after Frank’s beloved dogs. Many days, you’ll even find Frank himself greeting guests.
St. Helena
In the center of it all
Those looking for a more walkable retreat should try St. Helena as their home base. Thoroughly central, St. Helena offers no shortage of places to stay, from the country- club chic Meadowood, with its eponymous 3 Michelin-starred tasting menu hotspot, the Restaurant at Meadowood, to the sleekly modern Alila Napa Valley, a Luxury Collection Hotel, which offers walk-to-town positioning and expansive balconies with firepits overlooking the Beringer Vineyards, the intimate Ink House, or the quietly charming Harvest Inn.
Spa Lounge at Alila Napa Valley.
We find St. Helena to be the truest “town” in the valley. Its popular Main Street is a delight, where you’ll find everything from the 90-year-old Model Bakery, a Napa institution boasting English muffins so delicious they’ll make you rethink giving up carbs, to the quirky Martin Showroom, which, on a recent visit, boasted a $3.9 million T-Rex skeleton named Roosevelt amidst modern sofas and the latest chic coffee table books.
Throw a stone and you’ll hit some of the valley’s best wineries. The new and darkly sexy tasting room for The Prisoner is a must-visit, offering reds and whites at more affordable price points than many in the valley. We’ll return again and again to Hall, which offers excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as more than 33 acres of gardens with an impressive collection of over 35 pieces of sculpture and modern art. Appointments aren’t required, a rarity in Napa, so you’ll also be able to come and go as you please. Actually, some of the best experiences you’ll have here are the ones you won’t even have to book ahead or online. We can help curate custom gastro tours with invite-only wineries and chefs, bike and wine excursions, or visits to by-invitation-only wineries for our clients.
For dinner, pass on at least one tasting menu evening for the rotating selection of gourmet chicken wings or the burger at The Charter Oak from Christopher Kostow of Meadowood fame, or skip the wine for a night and try a craft cocktail from speakeasy-style local favorite Goose & Gander.
Oakville & Rutherford
Where the serious wine drinkers come to play
Just a few minutes down the road, Oakville and Rutherford offer up some of the area’s top vineyards and one standout hotel property. Auberge du Soleil, sister hotel to Solage, dominates with its hilltop restaurant, another Michelin-starred spot, offering one of the most romantic experiences available in the entire valley. For atmosphere without the $1,000-plus-per-night and up price tag, snag an outdoor table for lunch or a late afternoon drink at the no-reservation-required bistro on property.
These towns have no shortage of hard-hitting winery experiences and Cabernet Sauvignons that cost as much as your plane tickets from New York. Interested in the art of winemaking? A must-see is Palmaz Vineyards, one of the most high-tech in the valley, built into an 18-story cavern at the base of Mount George. For bragging rights, book into the newly-open-to-the-public Newton, part of the LVMH portfolio, which name drops Dom Pérignon, Krug, Veuve Clicquot, and Ruinart in their book of booze. To truly inspire jealousy amongst your wine-loving friends, grab a hard-to-get visit to only-available-with-the-right-strings-pulled Harlan or BOND, both of which boast lengthy waiting lists for their wine clubs. Hint: BOND is on this year’s Camp Napa visit list.
Yountville
Foodie focused
The French Laundry is a restaurant that has put — and kept — Napa dining on the map
for decades, and if you’re coming to worship at the altar of Thomas Keller, there’s no better place to do it than in Yountville. This is where he boasts four distinct dining ventures: the prix fixe French Laundry, which books exactly two months in advance; his signature Bouchon Bakery, where we encourage you to get both bread and a homemade Oreo; the decidedly less pricey $58-per-person prix fixe Ad Hoc + Addendum, where we recently tried the best-fried chicken on the planet; or his newest venture, a Mexican/Oaxacan spot called La Calenda.
There’s no better place to stay than the sleek Bardessono, built from salvaged stone and reclaimed wood, boasting LEED Platinum certification. It feels modern without veering at all into crunchy California territory. While you’re there, wander across the street to RH Yountville, a Restoration Hardware concept store offering a sleek restaurant perfect for brunch or lunch. Finish with an elevated tasting experience in Ma(i)sonry, a two-story wine vault in a more than century-old stone home. Youʼll experience unique flights from hand-selected area producers, many of which donʼt offer tasting experiences elsewhere. Weather permitting, lounge on comfortable sofas and enjoy your drinks in the trellised outdoor garden surrounded by olive trees and chandeliers.
Let’s be honest, we never thought we’d be so excited to visit an RH either, but their restaurant was a highlight brunch of a recent visit. Be sure to stay for a wine flight.
Napa
Buzzy + youthful
For years, downtown Napa offered little more than a stop on the way to “real” wine country, but recently, itʼs become a see-and-be-seen destination unto itself, full of new boutique (and well-priced) hotels like the Andaz by Hyatt as well as the Archer, which boasts the cityʼs only rooftop bar (Sky & Vine) as well as a Charlie Palmer Steak restaurant. Wineries like the new Ashes + Diamonds offer stylish midcentury modern décor, and in Napa proper, youʼll find actual nightlife beyond 10 pm.
Pop in and out of tasting rooms and shops as well as spots like Bounty Hunter, a popular wine shop, barbecue restaurant and tasting room that offers a standout selection of more than 400 top bottles. We could easily spend a day here in Napa _ starting with a cooking class at the Culinary Institute of Americaʼs (CIA) at Copia campus, browsing local shops at First Street Napa like the collection of artisan makers at Makerʼs Market and the food-focused Napastäk Napa Valley _ or the Oxbow Public Market, a unique collection of food stalls and farm-to-table vendors offering everything from oysters to fresh-pressed juices and one of the areaʼs only distillers.
New on the scene and just 10 minutes from downtown, Stanly Ranch, an Auberge Resort, is sure to steal your heart. Impeccably designed and surrounded by 700 acres of historic working ranch land, the Stanly will offer 78 guest rooms & stand-alone cottages. Each accommodation is meant to feel like a home away from home, with its warm neutrals, outdoor firepits, and open seating areas– perfect for sipping a glass of Napa wine. If you’re in need of a re-set, the resort’s spa (Halehouse), restoration (Springhouse), & movement studio (Fieldhouse), are ideal to unleash your untapped potential. With a focus on total wellbeing, each house creates individualized programs to balance your mind and spirit.
As you head out of town, donʼt worry, a return visit is a must, not just because youʼve likely joined at least one wine club, but because thereʼs more than enough to see to justify a second, third or fourth trip.
WHILE HARVEST FROM AUGUST THROUGH OCTOBER IS TECHNICALLY “HIGH” SEASON FOR NAPA, THERE’S TRULY NO BAD TIME TO DRINK WINE.
THE LOGISTICS
While harvest from August through October is technically “high” season for Napa, there’s truly no bad time to drink wine. Temperatures are mild year-round and rarely go below 50 degrees during the day. In fact, we prefer spring, where the area’s already lushly green hillsides become even more vibrant with blooming flowers and plants coming into their own, as well as the quieter periods during the late fall and winter when you can avoid crowds at many of the larger wineries and feel almost as if you have the place to yourself.
We’d suggest spending a night or two on the front or back end of your visit in San Francisco. The newly-renovated Four Seasons San Francisco is a great choice for an easy and modern downtown location. It’s about a 90-minute drive out to Napa proper, longer if you’re headed up to areas like Calistoga, or hit weekend or rush hour traffic. While wine plus driving never mixes, we suggest renting a car for the duration of your visit, as having a car is useful to prowl between towns during the day. We love Silvercar, easily accessible from downtown San Francisco or the airport, as they rent only three fully-loaded Audi options: the A4, Q5 or Cabriolet, each equipped with navigation, fast passes for tolls and Wi-Fi to ensure a smooth trip. Oakland, Sacra- mento, Sonoma and San Jose airports are all options for easy connections within the state of California. Note that Napa County has a small airstrip reserved for private and charter flights.
When you’re in town, drivers are a must for full-day wine touring. Many hotels offer a house car option or their own recommended driver services. Just be sure to book in advance, as wineries and drivers alike book up weeks — if not months — in advance for weekend peak season experiences. While Uber is readily available, we found the wait for rides to belong and fares high compared to city prices.
This piece is adapted from its original format, written by McLean Robbins for Woodbury Magazine.
